We arrived in Svalbard less than 24 hours before and we’d already heard the buzz about polar bear paw prints that had been spotted just 1 kilometer outside of Longyearbyen. As I pulled on my layers that morning for our snowmobile safari across Svalbard, I prayed we would get our chance to spot a polar bear in the wild. Our snowmobile safari would take us around 85 miles round trip from Svalbard’s largest settlement out into the Arctic wilderness.
Headed out with a high-powered rifle and emergency supplies
Our guide was towing a sled behind his snowmobile packed with sufficient gasoline, food supplies for ten people even though only five of us were headed out, an emergency shelter, satellite phone, and a complete change of clothes from boots to hat. The weather can change in an instant in the High Arctic and you can never be too prepared. Along with the fully packed sled, he slung a high-powered rifle over his shoulder.
Gjelder hele Svalbard. The infamous sign stands on the outskirts of Longyearbyen and indicates this is the farthest anyone should venture without a high-powered rifle. You just never know where a hungry polar bear might be lurking. As much as I wanted to see polar bears, a little shiver went up my spine (and it wasn’t from the biting wind and Arctic temperatures on this island a mere 600 miles from the North Pole).
After getting a handle on our Ski-Doo snowmobiles, we raced along the 19-mile long Advent Valley, weaving across the frozen Adventdalselva River. Herds of Svalbard reindeer were digging for lichen beneath the icecaps and they weren’t the least bit bothered by us. Svalbard reindeer have no natural enemies and the population numbers are closely monitored.
We reached Brentskaret, the pass that divides the Adventdalen and Sassendalen valleys, with stunning views of high mountains and glaciers. The Svalbard reindeer dotting the mountain slopes and ridges were the only contrast to the otherwise bluish-white world. As we descended the slopes and scooted across the valley, our guide suddenly stopped us. “Was it a polar bear?!”, I thought to myself. No polar bears, but two Arctic fox were frolicking and chasing each other just ahead of us. We watched them until the moved off far enough away for us to continue; Svalbard has very strict laws about not disturbing the wildlife.
Hungry and time for lunch, we parked our snowmobiles at Sassenfjorden and bolted ourselves into the emergency hut at the unusual trapper’s station Fredheim, Over an expedition lunch of freeze dried pasta bolognese, we heard the story of Fredheim, the most famous trapper’s station in Svalbard. What makes it so unique is that children were born at Fredheim. Tthe main building was built by Hilmar Nøis in the 1924 and married Ellen Dorthe Johansen Nøis, who was enchanted by Hilmar’s solitary lifestyle on the fjord. Ellen became pregnant and gave birth to their son alone when Hilmar and the doctors could not reach her in time. After that, she felt the solitary lifestyle was too burdensome and returned to Tromsø with her son, never looking back.
Hilmar met his next wife, Helfrid, on a coastal steamer in the summer of 1936 and invited her to come live with him at his “villa” in Sassendalen. Helfrid, who was a servant at a villa in Oslo, returned to her job laughing off Hilmar’s offer. After several letters from the persistent Hilmar, she decided to go to Svalbard. What she must of have thought when she arrived to the four building trapper’s station! But Helfrid made it her home and spent a very happy life there with Hilmar for many years.
Peaking out the tiny windows of the emergency hut and declaring it clear of polar bears, we went for a walk along the beach. The Arctic Ocean lapped at the shore, though it should have been frozen several meters thick. In fact, we were supposed to continue our snowmobile safari across the Arctic Ocean here, but the temperature winter had kept the sea ice from forming.
Not being able to cross the Arctic Ocean, we did have time to stop for a visit at Eskerfossen, the frozen waterfalls. Walls of blue ice were frozen in time as they poured over a ridge into the sub-glacial riverbed.
Our final stop our our snowmobile safari across Svalbard was at Jernsenga (The Iron Beds). There are many tales of why the beds were left there, but the Svalbard Environmental Protection Act states that all traces of human activity dating from 1945 or earlier are protected elements of the cultural heritage of Svalbard.Just how serious is the Svalbard Environmental Protection Act? A tourist had recently came across the beds, took a picture lying down on them, and tweeted it. The Governor of Svalbard saw the tweet and fined the tourist for disturbing the vulnerable treasures.
Admittedly, I was disappointed not to have spotted any polar bears on our snowmobile safari. But even so, our day was incredible and we explored parts of Svalbard most tourists cruising to Svalbard never see. Off-road motorized vehicles are prohibited in order to protect this great Arctic wilderness, so visiting the in-land areas we did is only possible in winter by snowmobile.
Know Before You Go
- Snow Scooter Safari with Svalbard Booking 2450 NOK per person; Driver license required; February – May.
- Snowmobile apparel: suit, boots, gloves, helmet, goggles and balaclava are provided. Wear thick wool socks, thermals, and a fleece for under the snowmobile suit.
This snowmobile safari across Svalbard was sponsored by Northern Norway and Visit Norway USA. As always, all opinions are entirely our own.
Jennifer Dombrowski
Jennifer Dombrowski is a location independent globe trotter and bases herself in Prata di Pordenone, Italy. She works as a social media and innovation strategist in higher education and is a regular contributor on johnnyjet.com. Her website, jdombstravels.com, is the 2012 Destinology Travel Bloggy Best Newcomer award winner. Google+
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We’re Jennifer and Tim and We love adventure and we love wine, so we often try to combine the two! By day, you’ll find us out on some crazy adventure like snorkeling in Iceland in winter, but by night, we’re creatures of comfort. We both work full time, so we bring you practical tips for how anyone can fit travel into their busy lives – just like us! So far, we've visited 43 countries, lived in the United States and Italy, and Tim has lived in Korea. And we do it all while both holding down full time jobs. 
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Andrea
March 21, 2013 at 3:14 pm (UTC 2) Link to this comment
I am very intrigued by the pasta bolognese!
Andrea recently posted..Rambling Through Bath
[Reply]
Jennifer Dombrowski Reply:
March 21st, 2013 at 5:41 pm
Lunch of expeditioners and astronauts! I don’t know if it was the cold, but freeze dried pasta bolognese was quite tasty after 4 hours on a snowmobile in the absolute middle of nowhere.
[Reply]
Amanda
March 21, 2013 at 6:11 pm (UTC 2) Link to this comment
Now THAT is a safari!
Bummer you didn’t spot any polar bears, but it still sounds like a really cool experience!
Amanda recently posted..A Dance of Lights: Awed by the Aurora Borealis
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Jennifer Dombrowski Reply:
March 21st, 2013 at 7:28 pm
It was definitely an amazing experience, Amanda! I’ve been camping before and though this was only a day trip, I’ve never felt so isolated in my life. We truly felt at one with and the mercy of nature.
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Lanee & Lindsay
March 22, 2013 at 9:21 pm (UTC 2) Link to this comment
Amazing! We’re putting this on our bucket list!
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Jennifer Dombrowski Reply:
March 23rd, 2013 at 12:41 pm
Definitely a once in a lifetime trip, Lanee and Lindsay! Hope you make it to Svalbard one day.
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Ed Graham
March 27, 2013 at 9:36 pm (UTC 2) Link to this comment
WOW this looks amazing… I have always wanted to see Svalbard.
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Jennifer Dombrowski Reply:
March 27th, 2013 at 10:57 pm
Svalbard is almost unreal. Nothing prepares you for just how remote it is! That said, we loved it there and would go back in a heartbeat.
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A Dog Sledding Adventure in Svalbard - Jdomb's Travels
March 22, 2013 at 9:38 am (UTC 2) Link to this comment
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